GHS Natural Health Blog

At present, the cosmetic industry selects from more than 5000 different ingredients. It’s no wonder consumers can be perplexed when they see the list. Here are some common cosmetic ingredients and their usual functions (active drug ingredients are not included).

Moisturizers function as a moisture barrier or to attract moisture from the environment:

• cetyl alcohol (fatty alcohol) – keeps oil and water from separating; also a foam booster
• dimethicone silicone – skin condition and anti-foam ingredient
• isopropyl lanolate, myristate, and palmitate
• lanolin and lanolin alcohols and oil – used in skin and hair conditioners
• octyl dodecanol – skin conditioner
• oleic acid (olive oil)
• panthenol (vitamin B-complex derivative) – hair conditioner
• stearic acid and stearyl alcohol

Preservatives and antioxidants (including vitamins) prevent product deterioration:

• trisodium and tetrasodium edetate (EDTA)
• tocopherol (vitamin E)

Antimicrobials fight bacteria:

• butyl, propyl, ethyl, and methyl parabens
• DMDM hydantoin
• methylisothiazolinone
• phenoxyethanol (also rose ether fragrance component)
• quaternium-15

Thickeners and waxes used in stick products such as lipsticks and blushers:

• candelilla, carnauba, and microcrystalline waxes
• carbomer and polyethylene thickeners

Solvents used to dilute:

• butylene glycol and propylene glycol
• cyclomethicone (volatile silicone)
• ethanol (alcohol)
• glycerin

Emulsifiers break up and refine:

• glyceryl monostearate (also pearlescent agent)
• lauramide DEA (also foam booster)
• polysorbates

Color additives:

Synthetic Organic colors derived from coal and petroleum sources (not permitted for use around the eye):

- D&C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake (lakes are dyes that do not dissolve in water)

Inorganic pigments – approved for general use in cosmetics, including for the area of the eye:

- iron oxides
- mica (iridescent)

Hair Dyes – phenol derivatives used in combination with other chemicals in permanent (two-step) hair dyes:

• aminophenols

pH adjusters stabilize or adjust acids and bases:

• ammonium hydroxide in skin peels and hair waving and straightening
• citric acid – adjusts pH triethanolamine pH adjuster used mostly in transparent soap

Others:

• magnesium aluminum silicate absorbent – anti-caking agent
• silica (silicon dioxide) – absorbent, anti-caking, abrasive
• sodium lauryl sulfate – detergent
• stearic acid – cleansing, emulsifier
• talc (powdered magnesium silicate) – absorbent anti-caking
• zinc stearate – used in powder to improve texture, lubricates.

Source: FDA (www.fda.gov)

There is a new report linking health risks and birth defects with a chemical used in popular cosmetics, gives a long overdue awakening to the FDA, consumers and the beauty industry.

Say if you’ve just got out of the shower this morning, blow-dried your hair and sprayed you hair with a bit of VO5 you’ve just poisoned yourself a little bit. If this is a regular routine in your life then it will eventually build up to immaculate amounts.

But it’s not just VO5 that could make you sick. Try Secret Sheer Dry deodorant, or the suitably named Poison, a perfume by Christian Dior. In fact, 52 popular cosmetics are now proven to have toxic components in varying concentrations — and they’re all over the place.

A report released jointly July 10 by Coming Clean, the Environmental Working Group and Health Care without Harm details the extent to which a toxic family of chemicals known as phthalates (THAY-lates) are used in everyday household products, especially beauty products like nail polish, lipstick and perfumes.

The report, titled “Not Too Pretty: Pthalates, Beauty Products and the FDA,” has its basis in a 1999 FDA study of toxins in the general population of the U.S. From a sample of 1,029 people, every one of them tested positive for phthalates in their blood or urine. Scientists at the Centers for Disease Control singled out a subgroup of 289 people with a particularly high incidence of phthalates: women of childbearing age. These women were found to have daily exposures of phthalates ranging from 2.5 to 22 times the normal for the rest of the general population, with 5 percent showing levels of 75 percent or higher of the acceptable daily amounts.

Judging from the 5 percent of women with dangerously high test results, it can be assumed that every day, as many as two million women of childbearing age are exposed to toxic levels of phthalates.

Phthalates have been shown to cause a wide array of health problems, from liver and kidney failure to heart, lung and blood pressure problems. The most worrisome aspect by far is the phthalates’ effect on the reproductive development of fetuses and infants, particularly the reproductive tracts of males.

Phthalates are metabolized in humans once ingested or absorbed through the skin. In pregnant women, phthalates pass through the placenta to be absorbed by the fetus. In nursing women, phthalates are found in breast milk, which means infants are ingesting these chemicals as they develop. In male fetuses — and infants especially — the phthalates have been shown to cause testicular atrophy and a reduced sperm count, among other serious health problems.

Dr. Stephen Safe of Texas A&M University notes that some in the medical community have expressed concerns about phthalate exposure and human health. “It’s hard to be specific until more medical data is available,” Dr. Safe says, “but if people have concerns, they should limit their use of these products.”

The HCWH report is the first to document and link the deleterious effects of phthalates to male reproductive development. Women of childbearing age were shown to be the most at-risk demographic, and it is reasonable to attribute this in large part to one fact: the beauty industry. According to Charlotte Brody, executive director of HCWH, “With all the variables involved, the only one that doesn’t apply on a large scale to both men and women is the use of cosmetics.”

Global Pollutants

Phthalates are plasticizers. In cosmetics, they are used to add texture and luster to the product. Ninety percent of the world’s plasticizers are used to soften PVC (vinyl) and make it pliable. The other 10 percent have been used in many kinds of manufacturing for 30 years, beginning with medical products like IV bags, gloves and blood bags, but also paints, lubricants, adhesives, toys, food containers, and, of course, cosmetics.

The use of phthalates in manufacturing is widespread, and has such a long history that phthalates have wormed their way into every corner of the globe. Traces are present in virtually every person on the planet. The phthalate DEHP has been found in Antarctica and in deep-sea jellyfish 3,000 feet below the ocean’s surface.

Different phthalates can be found in consumer products like shower curtains, umbrellas, adhesives, children’s toys, and countless other manufactured goods. PVC, being incredibly cheap to produce, is the preferred product for the world’s manufacturers. With phthalates, you can easily turn PVC into any number of products.

Turning the Tide

Since the FDA does not regulate the use of pthalates in cosmetics and beauty aids, manufacturers are not required to disclose them as ingredients.

Says the report: “Taken as a whole, the lab results indicate that a substantial fraction of cosmetics companies may be hiding phthalates on store shelves within the containers of their products, with no warning for pregnant women who might want to avoid purchasing products that contain chemicals linked to birth defects.”

DEHP, the primary phthalate found in medical supplies, has been found toxic in studies of patients who spend considerable amounts of time in hospitals, mainly newborns and the elderly. But other phthalates, including DEP, DBP, BBP, DCP, DOP and DINP, were last studied nearly 20 years ago.
 
According to FDA spokesperson Kimberly Rawlings, “Phthalates were shown to be safe for topical use in 1984, and there have been no further studies by the FDA on this subject since then.”
In a recent Dallas Morning News story on phthalates and the cosmetics industry, Rod Irvin, a spokesman for the American Chemistry Council’s Phthalate Esters Panel, said that “[p]hthalates are among the most-studied products out there. They have a long record of safe use, with no reports or evidence of harm to human health.” Additionally, the industry group has spent “millions” studying the compounds and has found no reason for concern.

In November 2000, the Environmental Working Group released a report that stated, “Phthalates are recognized as toxic substances under environmental law, but companies are free to use unlimited amounts in cosmetics.”

The FDA in the past has considered each of these phthalates separately when studying their toxicity. If you’re a dialysis patient, then you’re at risk for poisoning because you’re getting twice the amount of DEHP recommended with each visit. That’s bad. But if you’re a dialysis patient and you wear a lot of makeup and spend a lot of time playing with your grandchildren and their toys, your exposure could be deadly.

Not in the many-faceted eyes of the FDA, though. Its consideration of disparate exposure to phthalates is the main loophole manufacturers use to claim that phthalates are safe. Without recognizing that all members of the phthalate family accumulate to cause the same health problems, phthalate manufacturers are able to claim that each individual chemical is not harmful at the documented levels.

HCWH tested 72 of the following kinds of cosmetics: Nail polish, fragrances (perfumes, body oils, etc.), hairsprays, deodorants and lotions. Fifty-two of these contained phthalates as ingredients, though none were listed on the labels. Most of the pthalate-containing products are household names: Aqua Net Professional Hair Spray; Degree Original Solid Deodorant; Nivea Créme lotion; Elizabeth Arden’s Red Door fragrance; Calvin Klein’s Eternity perfume.

As Brody of HCWH points out, this is just the beginning: “It’s impossible to know without testing which products contain phthalates. Just because some of the lotions we tried tested negative doesn’t mean [all lotions are] clean.” Until the manufacturers are required to label phthalates, there’s no way to know for sure.

Early Warnings

This is only the latest in a long series of warnings about the dangers of phthalates, which have been used extensively since the early 1970s. The biggest commotion over phthalates came in 1998, when the Danish government issued a well-publicized ban on toys containing phthalates because of concern that children were being exposed to toxic chemicals when they put toys in their mouths. Lego, the Danish toymaker, quickly responded by reformulating its toy factories to phase out the use of phthalates in production of its toys.

Since then, there has been steadily growing awareness of the dangers of phthalates. Network news programs have discussed the dangers in toys, cosmetics and beauty products, and even in fish that live in polluted waters. Despite all this, the battle against phthalates has been a stalemate: The EU continues to extend its temporary ban on toys for children aged 3 and under, but European manufacturers are lobbying to institute a voluntary reporting system for all other products similar to what is in place in the U.S.

Stacy Malkan of HCWH is urging people to distribute the lists of phthalate-containing products far and wide, to discuss the topic of phthalates in cosmetics and medical supplies with their health care provider, and to contact the FDA to demand an industry-wide ban on phthalates in cosmetic products. In addition, the groups releasing the report are preparing to launch a national ad campaign.

As the report makes clear, non-toxic alternatives are readily available: “The limited testing done for Not Too Pretty reveals that the same big companies that produce phthalate-laced beauty products, also make similar products without phthalates … L’Oreal markets Jet Set nail polish without DBP but puts the phthalate in its Maybelline brand.”

Without the pressure of the public however, there will be no reason for the $20 billion-a-year cosmetics industry to phase out all phthalates. And women who continue to douse themselves in Christian Dior’s Poison may be helping the perfume live up to its name.

Find out right now if your favourite products are a disaster to your health. Search through a detailed list of the harmful ingredients that are hidden in makeup, hair care, skin care, baby care, perfumes and much more. Your skin and body will definitely thank you for it.

Most natural consumers are concerned with the products they put in their bodies and on their skin. In a polluted, industrialized system that sometimes seems a bit powerless to meet our needs, we try to gain some kind of control over our health by buying healthy chemically free products.

We’re sure that we want only “natural” and “pure” products, but have a difficult time finding these products on the shelves that qualify.

There is a reason why it is so difficult to make truthful choices that reflect our needs. The natural products consumer is targeted by commercial companies that want our revenue, but don’t have the deep desire to promote healthy products that we assume.

It’s all about packaging and marketing. Marketers, advertisers, and CEO’s of personal care products companies literally sit around tables figuring out how to convince us that what they are selling is natural. This is done with clever wording, choice of color and label design, packaging style, and choice of ingredients. Many of these products contain plant extracts that are highlighted on the label, but the base ingredients are synthetic. The same companies that are producing synthetically based products set aside “a portion” of their budget to create and promote a “natural line”. 

So how are we, as caring and educated as we are, so easily fooled? The first mistake that we make is when scanning an ingredient list on the back of a product, our eyes (and minds) skip over the long, complicated ingredients that we don’t understand, and rest on ingredients such as chamomile, lavender, and aloe. I cannot count the number of customers who have said to me, “Oh I just bought a natural chamomile lotion by “such and such (commercial brand)”, it smelled so good, and it’s all natural”. If I ask “Does it have methylparaben or propylene glycol in it?”, the answer is invariably “No, it’s all natural”. Upon follow up research, I consistently find that though the product may contain some plant-based ingredients, it also lists some dangerous chemicals.

I personally take offense at the large number of chemical-bearing personal care products that line the shelves of natural food stores. A natural products consumer goes to this type of store looking for a haven; a safe-house, where the frightening chemical-laden society recedes, and Nature presides. Because they are so trusting of the establishment, they are less critical of the products, and more likely to believe the advertising claims on the bottles of shampoo and lotion.  As a case in point, one of the largest “natural food chains” boasts that they don’t carry any food items with preservatives, yet they carry hundreds of personal care products that contain those exact preservatives.

It is a well known fact that 60% of what we put on our skin is absorbed into our body. If you have convinced yourself that these questionable ingredients are not something that you have to worry about, then ask yourself these few questions:

• Do you know, or know of a woman that has or has had cancer?
• Do you know, or know of a woman, man or child that has eczema, psoriasis, or scalp   problems?
• Do you know, or know of a woman or a man that is suffering from hair loss or arthritis?
• Do you know of a child that has suffered from genital infections?

If you can say yes to any of these questions, and if any of them apply to you, then you do need to become concerned about some of these questionable ingredients.

One last point, before presenting an informative list of ingredients to avoid, is the question that our customers constantly ask: Why does the FDA allow so many  products to carry toxic ingredients? The answer revolves around capitalism, greed, and power. Laws in Congress are influenced by lobbyists, and the large personal products manufacturers have very powerful lobbyists. The FDA does not require studies on the long-term health risks of the ingredients in personal care products, only short-term irritancy tests (think animal testing). To change this we must band together and become a more powerful voice, and let our congressman know that our and THEIR mothers, sisters and friends are dying of cancer, in direct relation to the quantity of chemicals that they apply to their skin over a lifetime.

INGREDIENTS TO AVOID:

QUATERNIUM 15: (DOVE, Johnson’s Baby Shampoo) FORMALDEHYDE, a carcinogen.

FD&C DYE: These dyes are produced from COAL TAR, and are documented to be CARCINOGENS.

BUTYL CELLOSOLVE, and ISOBUTENE: (Fantastic, Windex, and Formula 409)
A neuro-toxin. Damages the central nervous system, kidney and liver. Listed as a pesticide.

DIOXIN: Lysol disinfectant. Carcinogen, 500,000 times more deadly than DDT Ethyl Alcohol.

PROPYLENE GLYCOL: (contained in shampoo, conditioner, deodorant, lipstick, lotion, face cream, etc) This industrial solvent is so HIGHLY toxic, that industrial workers are warned of SEVERE health risks if contact occurs, such as brain, liver, and kidney abnormalities. They are required to wear protective clothing, gloves, and goggles during handling, and PG can only be disposed of in hazardous waste sites at a cost of $500.00 to $1,000 per drum!!!

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
Sodium Myreth Sulfate

The above ingredients and other detergents are industrial surfactants that are linked to cancer, and literally strip the scalp and skin of necessary oils, leaving it dry, and severely itchy and flaky. They were originally designed to clean floors and engines and now are found in 95%!!!! of shampoos and body cleansers, even the NATURAL brands. The saddest aspect of this is that this SLS causes irritation and infection in the genitals of young children, yet is the main ingredient in baby shampoos and bubble bath.

TALC: (contained in baby powder, foot powder, pressed eye shadow and blush, and foundation)
Linked to uterine cancer and respiratory problems in infants. Literally “suffocates” the skin.

DEA, MEA, and TEA: Repeated use of these chemicals leads to a major increase in the incidence of liver and kidney cancer. Restricted in Europe.

DMDM Hydantoin & UREA: Preservatives that release FORMALDEHYDE into the body. Funeral directors are now saying that there is such a high concentration of formaldehyde present in the human body at death that they are using 50% LESS formaldehyde than they used to.

FRAGRANCE (including FRAGRANCE OILS): Linked to cancer and mental problems including depression.

TRICLOSAN (found in ANTI-BACTERIAL SOAPS): Registered as a PESTICIDE with the FDA, linked to cancer, a hormone disruptor.

METHYLPARABEN, PROPYLPARABEN: Preservatives that deposit in the human system that disrupt normal enzyme activity.

PTHALATES: (Used nail polish, fragrance and a host of other products) Extremely toxic chemicals (regulated under environmental law) that reduce fertility, harm the male reproductive system, and are especially dangerous to pregnant womens’ fetuses. Found in products by Proctor & Gamble, L’Oreal, Lever Brothers, Maybelline, Chesebrough-Pond’s, Colgate, Elizabeth Arden, Kraft, and Revlon.

CARMINE: (found in lipsticks, glosses blushes, and eye shadow) This extract from the carmine beetle in South America, has been connected to heart problems.

Now, aside from these obviously toxic chemicals, there are other issues that arise with products that claim to be “all natural from pure vegetable sources”.

There are several ways to extract an oil or a wax from a plant, (eg. jojoba oil, evening primrose oil, shea butter, cocoa butter). It can be extracted with a solvent, which leaves toxic residues in the products, or by extremely high heat, which DESTROYS the botanical properties associated with the plant, or by the cold-pressed method. If you are a consumer or a manufacturer, ASK QUESTIONS. How was the shea butter extracted? Are the oils cold-pressed? Is the vitamin E or glycerin synthetic or natural?

Find out if the ingredients are organic. This is an extremely important issue, due to the very high toxicity level of pesticides that become concentrated in liquids extracted from plants.

Look for the words ‘cold-pressed’ and ‘organic’ on labels, and if you don’t see them, put the product down and keep looking. Ask questions to store owners, who in turn can call suppliers and manufacturers.

Stay away from ingredients that contain long words you cannot pronounce, that have the phrase “from coconut oil” in parentheses. Any natural products that have been chemically broke down are no longer natural and should be avoided at all costs. Sodium Laureth Sulfate is derived from coconut oil is still an unhealthy product, despite its source.

This list could go on for ages, but if you would like to gain more knowledge, start asking questions. Call the manufacturer, log on to the FDA website, and get the word out.

If you look at the ingredients of every skin-care product you currently own or almost all supposed “healthy” and expensive skin-care products sold in any store, you will find a combination of the following dangerous, chemical and synthetic ingredients. Please keep in mind that when you use ANYTHING on your skin or hair, ALL of the ingredients absorb into your body. Skin absorption is so potent that an increasing number of medicines are in patch form. Applying creams and oils is NO DIFFERENT from eating them, because they enter the blood-stream regardless if they are ingested in the mouth or absorbed through the skin! 

1) Methyl, Propyl, Butyl, and Ethyl Paraben- Some combination of  these synthetic ingredients are in almost EVERY skin and hair product made today. Widely known to be highly toxic and cause allergic/skin reactions. Companies use this dangerous ingredient, because it is extremely cheap and extends the shelf life of the product by inhibiting microbial growth.

2) Propylene Glycol -This Petroleum by-product is a synthetic ingredient used as a humectant.  Also used as an INDUSTRIAL ANTI-FREEZE to de-ice airplanes!!! This toxic ingredient causes many allergic reactions. Research data states that through skin contact it can cause “liver abnormalities and kidney damage.”

3) DMDM Hydrantoin – A Petro-chemical used as an ANTI-FREEZE in cars.

4) Sodium Laurel Sulfate – This highly toxic synthetic substance (used for foaming abilities) causes urinary tract, bladder and kidney infections, genital disorders, eye irritations, skin rashes, hair loss, scalp scurf similar to dandruff, and allergic reactions.

5) Synthetic Colors – Labeled as FD&C or D&C, followed by a color number such as FD&C Red. These highly toxic substances are usually coal-tar based and have been linked as cancer causing agents.

6) Synthetic Fragrances – Most Products will simply say “Fragrance” which means any combination of the cheapest 200 synthetic, toxic ingredients the company can find. Causes headaches, dizziness, rashes, violent coughing, vomiting, skin irritations etc..

7) Triethanolamine (TEA)/Diethanolamine (DEA) – Used to adjust the pH balance, but toxic and causes eye problems, and dryness of skin and hair. DEA has been linked with kidney, liver and other organ damage according to several government-funded research. One study found  that the topical application of DEA in rodents resulted in anaemia, kidney degeneration, and nerve damage to the brain and spinal cord. (Melnick et al., 1994) Even more disturbing was that several animals died before the study ended. Approximately 200 million pounds of DEA are produced annually in the U.S., most of which goes into personal care products. (USITC, 1990).

8) Imidazolidinyl Urea and Diazolidinyl Urea – Used as a a preservative, but a primary cause of contact dermatitis. You might see these toxic chemicals under the names Germall II and Germall 115, which release formaldehyde at just over 10°.

9) Behentrimonium Chloride – Toxic ammonia compound. Ingestion can be fatal. Concentrations as low as 0.1% can be irritating to the eyes and cause necrosis (tissue death) of mucus membranes.

10) Titanium, Zirconium, Benzalkonium, Bismuth, Antimony (*1), Barium (*2), Aluminum, Tin, Chromium, Benzene & PCBs. – According to Dr. Hulda Reghi Clark, all of these ingredients are extremely dangerous. *1 – Breast cancer cases show Titanium, Zirconium, Benzalkonium, Bismuth, Antimony, and Aluminum accumulation in the breast. *2 -Barium is described in the Merck Index as a “caution”. ALL water or acid soluble Barium is POISONOUS! 10ed. P.139, 1983.